Ski poles don’t get the respect that they deserve. Yet we count on them to be so many things to help us conquer so many obstacles: strong to help with uphill treks and planting turns, light so that they can be carried around all day long, flexible so that they don’t snap or twist too much when you fall.

Some Important Considerations:
1. The fit is the most important factor
2. Wrist straps are a must and the traditional nylon wrist strap is the popular choice
3. Choose the right basket: larger baskets for powder, smaller baskets for groomed slopes

For a beginner, it is paramount that the ski pole fits.
Once you’re more seasoned, you may want to experiment with different materials to see which one suits you best.

How do you conduct a Ski Pole Fit?
Do this first: stand in your ski boots. Flip the poles upside down.  Let the grips touch the floor.  Then grab the pole underneath the basket, so that the top of your thumb touches the basket. Check to see that your elbow is bent at a 90 degree angle.  If it is less than that, get a shorter pole; likewise, if it is greater, get a longer pole.

Knowing Your Strap
Ski Pole strap design has had some variations over the years, but ultimately, the flexible nylon wrist strap still reigns supreme.  During turns, should you lose your grip, the strap enables the pole to stay where you last planted it. Should you fall, the straps ensure that the poles come along with you, rather than get left behind some 40 feet away.

What’s Up With The Basket
The basket is simply the plastic disc located at the bottom of a ski pole.  This plastic disc keeps you pole above the snow and prevents it from sinking into the powder.

Some Important Considerations:
1. In powder conditions, choose a bigger basket
2. On groomed slopes, choose a smaller basket.

Many poles are equipped with interchangeable baskets.  Some provide additional baskets which can be purchased separately.

Telescoping Poles
Telescoping poles can be lengthened or shortened depending upon the need.  For example, it can be lengthened for use during uphill cross-country climbs.  It can then be shortened for alpine descents.  Some Ski pole models are designed to be extended and can accommodate a vertical join, lengthening it for use as an avalanche probe.  One important note about telescoping poles:  should you choose one, check to see if they adjust from waist height for downhill skiing to just above your armpit to help you achieve proper striding.

When you acquire bindings, they should match your Skier Profile:

Juniors: Bindings for kids have lower release settings relative to adult bindings. They’re made primarily to handle kid-specific boots; however, you will find that some bindings work on adult sizes too.

Beginner and intermediate: You probably do not need the highest release setting or the lightest or most impact-resistant materials. Save a few bucks without compromising safety by looking into a lower-end to mid-range model. Please note that if you’re a bit of a fattie, you may want to look into a higher release setting and may need to purchase the next level of bindings.

Advanced: The aggressive skier. You are going to push it, and exponentially increase the likelihood of a big wipe-out, but anyway, you most likely will need a higher release setting. Light, bomber bindings made with titanium enhance your skiing at high speeds and on steep terrain.

Eroi di una nazione…
But seriously folks…

Speriamo meglio l’anno prossimo.

This ski jump is a bit too close for comfort

Binding are critical to helping, nay, saving your knees. It detects when the time is right to cut you loose so that you don’t get twisted and severely damage your knees. These devices are thoroughly tested against established safety standards, so new sets should do the trick for you in the event you end up needing them. Note that the latest integrated ski and binding systems remove the need for you to decide which one to get. However, should you desire the non-integrated systems, here are some tips to help you along:

First, understand that bindings absorb shock, dampen vibration and ultimately limits fatigue. Your ski equipment works together, and in this case, your skis, boots and bindings work collectively as one, and a decent pair of bindings actually contribute to better skiing.

Bindings are made up of a toe and heel component set. In the event of a crash, the toe section releases sideways and on ocassion upwards, while the heel releases primarily upward, but may also do so in multiple directions.

Brakes are essentially prongs that are built in with the bindings, and they are located under the boots. Prongs should line up with the sides of the ski. Upon the release of the binding in a crash, the prongs flip down and drag on the snow to assist in keeping the ski from getting away from you. Nothing like a runaway ski on a slope. Brakes also have the added benefit of being able to secure ski bases together, which then helps with its transport. Brakes should be in accord with the width of the ski: wide skiis, wide brakes.

Anti-friction devices are metal or Teflon® pads located on the ski under the forefeet. They allow the boots to easily slide out of the bindings in the event the toe pieces release.

Bindings have been following the wide trend. Still, bindings you buy today will in all likelihood still fit your narrow (relatively speaking) skis, but understand that the brakes may protrude just a bit.